Switches and outlets explained
To make finding the right fixtures easier, we’ve created a bite-sized guide to the terminology commonly used when talking about switches and outlets.
Which category would you like to learn about?
Get to know the key terms and product types before starting your search.
Which range would you like to learn about?
Find out about our two different designs.
Our Kew collection
Our sleek, minimalist Kew switches and outlets are fitted with new work boxes (the boxes need to be recessed into the wall for the super-slim front plates to sit flush). This makes them a great option for new construction projects.
The Kew front plates are made from solid brass in our three metal finishes, as well as a primed option that’s paintable. Or there are our clear Kew plates made from transparent polycarbonate.
Our Kew collection
Our sleek, minimalist Kew switches and outlets are fitted with new work boxes (the boxes need to be recessed into the wall for the super-slim front plates to sit flush). This makes them a great option for new construction projects.
The Kew front plates are made from solid brass in our three metal finishes, as well as a primed option that’s paintable. Or there are our clear Kew plates made from transparent polycarbonate.
Our Grove collection
Our Grove switches and outlets are compatible with both old and new work boxes, so they’re ideal for retrofitting. They have slightly thicker front plates than Kew, which creates a bolder (but still refined) look on the wall.
The Grove front plates are only made from solid brass and come in our three metal finishes.
Our Grove collection
Our Grove switches and sockets work with most standard European back boxes, making them ideal for retrofitting. They have slightly thicker front plates than Kew, which creates a bolder (but still refined) appearance on the wall.
The Grove front plates are only made from solid brass and come in our three metal finishes.
Our switches
We offer three way, four way, retractive, dimming retractive (this one comes ready with our in-line dimmer module), center retractive, and double pole options for our 1G toggles and rockers.
Our 1G retractive toggle and rocker are also available as a "smart" switch, so you can control your lights using your smartphone, tablet, or voice.
You can also build a bespoke switch combination using our individual components.
A switch, simplified
The component parts that make up the product.
The control that you use to operate a light. It could be a lever-style toggle, a pivoting rocker, or a dimmer knob.
A front plate is the cover that surrounds the switch.
It can be made from plastic, steel, ceramic, or in our case, solid brass or transparent polycarbonate. It protects the wiring and electrical mechanism and gives a clean finish on the wall.
Gang (or ‘G’) describes the number of switches on a front plate. A 1G switch will have one switch on one plate, a 2G switch will have two switches on one plate, and so on.
The component that contains the switch. It sits behind the front plate and connects to the line voltage wiring.
This is the part that’s inserted into the wall to hold all the electrics and the front plate in place. There are two types: new work and old work.
New work electrical boxes are designed for new construction projects, where the wall studs are still exposed.
Old work electrical boxes are designed for remodelling projects, where the wall studs aren’t accessible (rather than screwing or nailing the box to the studs, old work boxes have "wings" that pop out and grip the dry wall).
Toggle
A traditional style on-off lever light switch (also known as a dolly switch).
- Made from solid brass
- Switch mechanism engineered to give a solid, satisfying click
Rocker
A contemporary on-off switch with a sloped button that rocks back and forth.
- Made from solid brass
- Switch mechanism engineered to give a solid, satisfying click
Dimmer
Typically, this is a button that pushes to turn your lights on or off and rotates to dim. It’s known as a rotary dimmer.
- Made from solid brass (including the collar underneath the knob that hides all the working parts)
- Anti-flickering/buzzing
Control the same light circuit from two locations (like the top and bottom of a staircase or in rooms with multiple entrances) using two of this type of switch.
A switch type that’s used when three or more switches are required to control the same light from different locations.
Three-way switches are used at the start and end of the circuit, and one or more four-way switches are added to the middle of the circuit.
A pole is the number of contacts that a single switch can control. A double pole switch contacts two circuits.
It isolates both the hot and neutral circuits (instead of just the hot circuit), meaning there’s no current passing through for an extra level of safety. Use it to turn high-power appliances completely off and on again.
This sort of switch springs back to the original "off" position after being pressed.
You can use it for things like doorbells, garbage disposals, or to dim lights when used with an in-line dimmer module.
You can use up to twenty of these switches per circuit, but they all need to be the same switch type (all retractive).
This switch sits in a central (neutral) position and springs back to the same position after being pressed. It can be pressed up or down to make two separate connections.
You can use it for things like electronic blinds, or to dim lights when used with an in-line dimmer module.
You can use up to twenty of these switches per circuit, but they all need to be the same switch type (all center retractive).
You can use one of our three-way dimmers on a circuit to dim from just one location. If you have one other switch on the circuit, it needs to be a three-way toggle or rocker. For a four-way circuit, you would have one three-way dimmer at the first location, four-way switches in between and a three-way toggle or rocker at the last location.
Our in-line dimmer module sits in the electrical box with the rest of the electrics.
It can be used with both our retractive and center retractive toggle and rocker switches to give them dimming capabilities. A short press will turn the light off and on. A press and hold will dim or brighten.
It also has a memory function, so the lights turn on at the same brightness as they were last used.
Our smart version can be used with our retractive toggle and rocker switches for remote dimming and switching via a phone, tablet, or voice command (as well as at the wall). You can’t use our center retractive toggles and rockers with this one.
We make our Kew and Grove front plates from solid brass (rather than sheet metal wrapped around a frame) to create perfectly crisp edges.
Our Kew clear plates are the only exception. We make these from transparent polycarbonate, which is more flexible and durable than the usual acrylic.
This plate doesn’t have any cut-outs for the switches (or outlets). Instead, it’s designed for covering unused electrical boxes and wiring.
You'll find the installation guides for our switches and sockets on our instructions page. All Corston electrical products should be installed by a qualified electrician.
Our switches
We offer three way, four way, retractive, dimming retractive (this one comes ready with our in-line dimmer module), center retractive, and double pole options for our 1G toggles and rockers.
Our 1G retractive toggle and rocker are also available as a "smart" switch, so you can control your lights using your smartphone, tablet, or voice.
You can also build a bespoke switch combination using our individual components.
A switch, simplified
The component parts that make up the product.
The control that you use to operate a light. It could be a lever-style toggle, a pivoting rocker, or a dimmer knob.
A front plate is the cover that surrounds the switch.
It can be made from plastic, steel, ceramic, or in our case, solid brass or transparent polycarbonate. It protects the wiring and electrical mechanism and gives a clean finish on the wall.
Gang (or ‘G’) describes the number of switches on a front plate. A 1G switch will have one switch on one plate, a 2G switch will have two switches on one plate, and so on.
The component that contains the switch. It sits behind the front plate and connects to the line voltage wiring.
You’ll find this on the rear of the front plate. It holds the switch module in place and screws onto the electrical box.
This is the part that’s inserted into the wall to hold all the electrics and the front plate in place. There are two types: new work and old work.
New work electrical boxes are designed for new construction projects, where the wall studs are still exposed.
Old work electrical boxes are designed for remodelling projects, where the wall studs aren’t accessible (rather than screwing or nailing the box to the studs, old work boxes have "wings" that pop out and grip the dry wall).
Toggle
A traditional style on-off lever light switch (also known as a dolly switch).
- Made from solid brass
- Switch mechanism engineered to give a solid, satisfying click
Rocker
A contemporary on-off switch with a sloped button that rocks back and forth.
- Made from solid brass
- Switch mechanism engineered to give a solid, satisfying click
Dimmer
Typically, this is a button that pushes to turn your lights on or off and rotates to dim. It’s known as a rotary dimmer.
- Made from solid brass (including the collar underneath the knob that hides all the working parts)
- Anti-flickering/buzzing
Control the same light circuit from two locations (like the top and bottom of a staircase or in rooms with multiple entrances) using two of this type of switch.
A switch type that’s used when three or more switches are required to control the same light from different locations.
Three-way switches are used at the start and end of the circuit, and one or more four-way switches are added to the middle of the circuit.
A pole is the number of contacts that a single switch can control. A double pole switch contacts two circuits.
It isolates both the hot and neutral circuits (instead of just the hot circuit), meaning there’s no current passing through for an extra level of safety. Use it to turn high-power appliances completely off and on again.
This sort of switch springs back to the original "off" position after being pressed.
You can use it for things like doorbells, garbage disposals, or to dim lights when used with an in-line dimmer module.
You can use up to twenty of these switches per circuit, but they all need to be the same switch type (all retractive).
This switch sits in a central (neutral) position and springs back to the same position after being pressed. It can be pressed up or down to make two separate connections.
You can use it for things like electronic blinds, or to dim lights when used with an in-line dimmer module.
You can use up to twenty of these switches per circuit, but they all need to be the same switch type (all center retractive).
You can use one of our three-way dimmers on a circuit to dim from just one location. If you have one other switch on the circuit, it needs to be a three-way toggle or rocker. For a four-way circuit, you would have one three-way dimmer at the first location, four-way switches in between and a three-way toggle or rocker at the last location.
Our in-line dimmer module sits in the electrical box with the rest of the electrics.
It can be used with both our retractive and center retractive toggle and rocker switches to give them dimming capabilities. A short press will turn the light off and on. A press and hold will dim or brighten.
It also has a memory function, so the lights turn on at the same brightness as they were last used.
Our smart version can be used with our retractive toggle and rocker switches for remote dimming and switching via a phone, tablet, or voice command (as well as at the wall). You can’t use our center retractive toggles and rockers with this one.
We make our Kew and Grove front plates from solid brass (rather than sheet metal wrapped around a frame) to create perfectly crisp edges.
Our Kew clear plates are the only exception. We make these from transparent polycarbonate, which is more flexible and durable than the usual acrylic.
This plate doesn’t have any cut-outs for the switches (or outlets). Instead, it’s designed for covering unused electrical boxes and wiring.
You'll find the installation guides for our switches and sockets on our instructions page. All Corston electrical products should be installed by a qualified electrician.
Our outlets
Our outlets come in the same two collections as our switches (Kew and Grove).
We offer individual modules on our components page if you want to build a custom combination.
An outlet, simplified
The component parts that make up the product.
A front plate is the cover that surrounds the outlet.
It can be made from plastic, steel, ceramic, or in our case, solid brass or transparent polycarbonate. It protects the wiring and electrical mechanism and gives a clean finish on the wall.
The component that contains the outlet (the plastic part you can see that’s framed by the front plate will be black or white – your choice).
The insert sits behind the front plate, connects to the line voltage wiring, and screws directly onto the electrical box.
(Our keystone modules are assembled slightly differently because we make them with as little visible plastic as possible, meaning they’re smaller. They sit in a chassis that holds the module in place and screws onto the electrical box.)
This is the part that’s inserted into the wall to hold all the electrics and the front plate in place. There are two types: new work and old work.
New work electrical boxes are designed for new construction projects, where the wall studs are still exposed.
Old work electrical boxes are designed for remodelling projects, where the wall studs aren’t accessible (rather than screwing or nailing the box to the studs, old work boxes have "wings" that pop out and grip the dry wall).
15A power outlet
A 15A outlet is used to power household items that don’t need a lot of electricity, like lamps, TVs, and computers.
You can also choose a version of our 1G 15A outlet that has two integrated 45W fast-charge USB-C ports (otherwise, there’s our broader 2G option with a 15A outlet and an adjacent 45W USB-C dual port).
20A power outlet
Use our 20A outlet to power household appliances that need more electricity, like microwaves, washing machines, and refrigerators.
You can plug standard 15A devices into a 20A outlet, but you can’t plug a 20A device into a 15A outlet.
45W fast charge USB
You can use this dual port to quickly charge up to two standard USB-C devices.
You can only use one of these keystone outlet types per gang on a plate.
65W fast charge USB
This version is for charging up to two USB-C devices that require more power, such as larger laptops or high-performance tablets.
The devices will charge quicker using this version compared to the 45W one.
You can only use one of these keystone outlet types per gang on a plate.
GFCI
This stands for ground fault circuit interrupter.
A GFCI outlet constantly monitors the flow of electricity being carried to and away from a device (the currents should be equal). If there’s an imbalance, it’ll cut the power.
This type of outlet should be used in areas where there’s a higher risk of electric shock, such as kitchens, bathrooms, laundry rooms, basements, and garages. We offer a 15A and 20A version.
Keystone
A "jack" (or connection point) that’s typically used for network, telephone, or audio-visual devices.
The keystone modules on our components page work with our keystone plates. They’re much smaller than our outlet modules, and you can combine different types on one plate.
Our CAT6, HDMI, satellite, TV and fast-charge USB modules are the keystone variety.
CAT6
Connect your Ethernet cable through this outlet for fast internet speeds.
Keystone
A "jack" (or connection point) that’s typically used for network, telephone, or audio-visual devices.
The keystone modules on our components page work with our keystone plates. They’re much smaller than our outlet modules, and you can combine different types on one plate.
Our CAT6, HDMI, satellite, TV and fast-charge USB modules are the keystone sort.
HDMI
Use an HDMI outlet to connect displays (like TVs or monitors) to HDMI source devices (like computers or game consoles) directly through the wall.
The outlet is usually connected to a central "hub" that manages multiple HDMI sources and distributes them to different rooms.
TV
Use a TV outlet to connect your TV to the antenna using a coaxial cable.
Satellite
A "jack" (or connection point) that’s typically used for network, telephone, or audio-visual devices.
The keystone modules on our components page work with our keystone plates. They’re much smaller than our outlet modules, and you can combine different types on one plate.
Our CAT6, HDMI, satellite, TV and fast-charge USB modules are the keystone sort.
You’ll find the installation guides for our switches and outlets on our instructions page. All Corston electrical products should be installed by a qualified electrician.
Our outlets
Our outlets come in the same two collections as our switches (Kew and Grove).
We offer individual modules on our components page if you want to build a custom combination.
An outlet, simplified
The component parts that make up the product.
A front plate is the cover that surrounds the outlet.
It can be made from plastic, steel, ceramic, or in our case, solid brass or transparent polycarbonate. It protects the wiring and electrical mechanism and gives a clean finish on the wall.
The component that contains the outlet (the plastic part you can see that’s framed by the front plate will be black or white – your choice).
The insert sits behind the front plate, connects to the line voltage wiring, and screws directly onto the electrical box.
(Our keystone modules are assembled slightly differently because we make them with as little visible plastic as possible, meaning they’re smaller. They sit in a chassis that holds the module in place and screws onto the electrical box.)
You’ll find this on the rear of the front plate. It holds the outlet module in place and screws onto the electrical box.
This is the part that’s inserted into the wall to hold all the electrics and the front plate in place. There are two types: new work and old work.
New work electrical boxes are designed for new construction projects, where the wall studs are still exposed.
New work electrical boxes are designed for new construction projects, where the wall studs are still exposed.
15A power outlet
A 15A outlet is used to power household items that don’t need a lot of electricity, like lamps, TVs, and computers.
You can also choose a version of our 1G 15A outlet that has two integrated 45W fast-charge USB-C ports (otherwise, there’s our broader 2G option with a 15A outlet and an adjacent 45W USB-C dual port).
20A power outlet
Use our 20A outlet to power household appliances that need more electricity, like microwaves, washing machines, and refrigerators.
You can plug standard 15A devices into a 20A outlet, but you can’t plug a 20A device into a 15A outlet.
45W fast charge USB
You can use this dual port to quickly charge up to two standard USB-C devices.
You can only use one of these keystone outlet types per gang on a plate.
65W fast charge USB
This version is for charging up to two USB-C devices that require more power, such as larger laptops or high-performance tablets.
The devices will charge quicker using this version compared to the 45W one.
You can only use one of these keystone outlet types per gang on a plate.
GFCI
This stands for ground fault circuit interrupter.
A GFCI outlet constantly monitors the flow of electricity being carried to and away from a device (the currents should be equal). If there’s an imbalance, it’ll cut the power.
This type of outlet should be used in areas where there’s a higher risk of electric shock, such as kitchens, bathrooms, laundry rooms, basements, and garages. We offer a 15A and 20A version.
Keystone
A "jack" (or connection point) that’s typically used for network, telephone, or audio-visual devices.
The keystone modules on our components page work with our keystone plates. They’re much smaller than our outlet modules, and you can combine different types on one plate.
Our CAT6, HDMI, satellite, TV and fast-charge USB modules are the keystone variety.
CAT6
Connect your Ethernet cable through this outlet for fast internet speeds.
Keystone
A "jack" (or connection point) that’s typically used for network, telephone, or audio-visual devices.
The keystone modules on our components page work with our keystone plates. They’re much smaller than our outlet modules, and you can combine different types on one plate.
Our CAT6, HDMI, satellite, TV and fast-charge USB modules are the keystone sort.
HDMI
Use an HDMI outlet to connect displays (like TVs or monitors) to HDMI source devices (like computers or game consoles) directly through the wall.
The outlet is usually connected to a central "hub" that manages multiple HDMI sources and distributes them to different rooms.
TV
Use a TV outlet to connect your TV to the antenna using a coaxial cable.
Satellite
A satellite outlet will transmit video and audio signals from a satellite dish to your TV.
Keystone
A "jack" (or connection point) that’s typically used for network, telephone, or audio-visual devices.
The keystone modules on our components page work with our keystone plates. They’re much smaller than our outlet modules, and you can combine different types on one plate.
Our CAT6, HDMI, satellite, TV and fast-charge USB modules are the keystone sort.
You'll find the installation guides for our switches and sockets on our instructions page. All Corston electrical products should be installed by a qualified electrician.