Switches and sockets explained

To make finding the right fixtures easier, we've created a bite-sized guide to the terminology commonly used when talking about switches and sockets.

Which category would you like to learn about?

Get to know the key terms and product types before starting your search.

Switches

Sockets

Both

Our switches

Let us help you find the right type of switches. Our toggle, dimmer and rocker options are designed with front plates that sit flush to the wall.

We offer two way, retractive and centre retractive, intermediate, and double pole options for our 1G toggles and rockers.

Our 1G retractive toggle is also available as a 'smart' switch, so you can control your lights using your smartphone, tablet or voice.

Learn key terms Learn about switch types

A switch, simplified

The component parts that make up the product.

Switch

The control that you use to operate a light. It could be a lever-style toggle, a pivoting rocker or a dimmer knob.

Front plate

A front plate is the cover that surrounds the switch.

It can be made from plastic, steel, ceramic, or in our case, solid brass or transparent polycarbonate. It protects the wiring and electrical mechanism and gives a clean finish on the wall.

Gang

Gang (or 'G') describes the number of switches on a front plate. A 1G switch will have one switch on one plate, a 2G switch will have two switches on one plate, and so on.

Module

The component that contains the switch. It sits behind the front plate and connects to the mains wiring.

Chassis

You'll find this on the rear of the front plate. It holds the switch module in place and screws onto the back box.

Back box

This is the part that's inserted into the wall to hold all the electrics and the front plate in place. In the UK, it's made of metal if it's for solid brick walls, or plastic (ours is fully recycled) for plasterboard.

Toggle

A traditional style on and off lever light switch (also known as a dolly switch).

Made from solid brass
Patented switch mechanism engineered to give a solid, satisfying click
Tested to one million cycles to guarantee longevity

Rocker

A contemporary on-off switch with a sloped button that rocks back and forth.

Made from solid brass
Switch mechanism engineered to give a solid, satisfying click

Dimmer

Typically, this is a button that pushes to turn your lights on or off and rotates to dim. It's known as a rotary dimmer.

Made from solid brass (including the collar underneath the knob that hides all the working parts)
Anti-flickering/buzzing

Two-way

Control the same light circuit from two locations (like the top and bottom of a staircase or in rooms with multiple entrances) using two of this type of switch.

Double pole

A pole is the number of contacts that a single switch can control. A double pole switch contacts two circuits.

It isolates both the live and neutral circuits (instead of just the live circuit), meaning there's no current passing through for an extra level of safety. Use it to turn high-power appliances completely off and on again.

Intermediate

A switch type that's used when three or more switches are required to control the same light from different locations.

Two-way switches are used at the start and end of the circuit, and one or more intermediate switches are added to the middle of the circuit.

Retractive

This sort of switch springs back to the original 'off' position after being pressed.

You can use it for things like doorbells, in-sink food waste grinders, or to dim lights when used with an in-line dimmer module.

You can use up to twenty of these switches per circuit, but they all need to be the same switch type (all retractive).

Centre retractive

This switch sits in a central (neutral) position and springs back to the same position after being pressed. It can be pressed up or down to make two separate connections.

You can use it for things like electronic blinds, or to dim lights when used with an in-line dimmer module.

You can use up to twenty of these switches per circuit, but they all need to be the same switch type (all centre retractive).

Isolator

Isolator switches cut off the supply of electricity to a section of the circuit so that repairs, servicing and maintenance can be carried out safely.

Our isolator switches are for kitchen and bathroom fans, high current appliances such as double ovens and induction hobs (45A cooker switch) and washing machines, fridges, dishwashers or other permanent appliances (switched fused spur (FCU)).

We also sell a bathroom pull switch which is another type of isolator switch (but isn't a wall switch which could conduct electricity in a damp environment).

Two-way

You can use one of our two-way dimmers on a circuit, so you can dim from one location. One other switch on the circuit needs to be a two-way toggle or rocker switch. You can then have as many intermediate toggles or rockers as you like.

400W two-way

This two-way dimmer switch (found in our components section) is for projects with higher wattage requirements.

0–10V

This type of dimmer is designed for use with 0–10V lights. Again, you'll find it as a module in our components section.

Dummy

Our dummy dimmer module can be used with our two-way dimmers to control the same light from two locations.

You can't use it for dimming – just on-off switching – but it'll create a cohesive look with your other rotary dimmers.

Intermediate dummy

This version of our dummy dimmer module can be combined with one two-way dimmer and one dummy dimmer to turn the same light on and off from three or more locations.

In-line dimmer module

Our in-line dimmer module sits in the back box with the rest of the electrics.

It can be used with both our retractive and centre retractive toggle switches to give them dimming capabilities. A short press will turn the light off and on. A press and hold will dim or brighten.

It has a memory function, so the lights turn on at the same brightness as they were last used.

Smart in-line dimmer module

Our smart version can be used with our retractive toggle switches for remote dimming and switching via a phone, tablet, or voice command (as well as at the wall). You can't use our centre retractive toggles with this one.

Standard

We make our front plates from solid brass (rather than sheet metal wrapped around a frame) to create perfectly crisp edges. And they're just 1.5mm thick.

Our clear plates are the only exception. We make these from transparent polycarbonate, which is more flexible and durable than the usual acrylic. They're just slightly thicker than our solid brass plates at 2mm.

Architrave

A narrower front plate that's designed to fit where standard styles can't (you'll often find these used between two door frames). We offer a 1G and 2G version.

Vertical

A vertically oriented, multi-gang front plate that offers an alternative to the industry-standard horizontal style (and will fit where horizontal ones can't).

Blank plate

This plate doesn't have any cut-outs for the switches. Instead, it's designed for covering unused back boxes and wiring.

You'll find the installation guides for our switches and sockets on our instructions page. All Corston electrical products should be installed by a qualified electrician.

Our sockets

We offer a range of sockets – including covered floor sockets, USB charging ports, and unswitched options – as well as individual modules on our components page if you want to build a custom combination.

Learn key terms Learn about socket types

A socket, simplified

The component parts that make up the product.

Front plate

A front plate is the cover that surrounds the socket.

It can be made from plastic, steel, ceramic, or in our case, solid brass or transparent polycarbonate. It protects the wiring and electrical mechanism and gives a clean finish on the wall.

Insert

The component that contains the socket (the plastic part you can see that's framed by the front plate will be black or white – your choice).

The insert sits behind the front plate, connects to the mains wiring, and screws directly onto the back box.

(Our Euro and keystone modules are assembled slightly differently and feature a chassis. A Euro module chassis holds the Euro module in place and screws onto the back box.

Our keystone modules are made with as little visible plastic as possible, so they're smaller, and sit in an 'intermediate' chassis that slots into the Euro module.)

Back box

Standard 13A UK

A square-pin 13-amp single or double socket. Ours come with the option of integrated USB-A+C and dual USB-C fast charging ports too. We also offer standalone USB sockets.

13A unswitched

Designed to provide a constant supply of power to a device or appliance that's intended for continuous use, so doesn't need a switch.

5A

Regular electrical plugs won't fit this type of socket (it's for round not square pins), and it usually comes unswitched.

Use to control appliances that take less than a 5-amp current, like floor and table lamps, through the room's lighting circuit.

This is ideal if you have a large room with multiple lamps that you want to operate in unison from a main light switch rather than at the individual sockets.

Schuko

Use for two-pin European plugs or connections.

BT Master & Slave

Connect your landline via the Master socket. Use the Slave sockets to connect other phones around your home.

RJ11

An RJ11 socket connects to telephone wiring that runs through your walls to a central junction point. It's mainly used for landline telephones and some low-speed dial-up internet connections.

Keystone module

A 'jack' (or connection point) that's used for either network, telephone or audio-visual devices.

The keystone modules on our components page work with our keystone plates. They're much smaller than our 25mm and 50mm modules, and you can combine different types on one plate.

Our CAT6, HDMI, RJ11, satellite and TV modules are the keystone sort.

CAT6

Connect your Ethernet cable through this socket for fast internet speeds.

Keystone module

A 'jack' (or connection point) that's used for either network, telephone or audio-visual devices.

The keystone modules on our components page work with our keystone plates. They're much smaller than our 25mm and 50mm modules, and you can combine different types on one plate.

Our CAT6, HDMI, RJ11, satellite and TV modules are the keystone sort.

HDMI

Use an HDMI socket to connect displays (like TVs or monitors) to HDMI source devices (like computers or games consoles) directly through the wall.

The socket is usually connected to a central 'hub' that manages multiple HDMI sources and distributes them to different rooms.

Keystone module

A 'jack' (or connection point) that's used for either network, telephone or audio-visual devices.

The keystone modules on our components page work with our keystone plates. They're much smaller than our 25mm and 50mm modules, and you can combine different types on one plate.

Our CAT6, HDMI, RJ11, satellite and TV modules are the keystone sort.

Brush plate

Brush plates allow multiple (and non-standard) cables to enter or exit the wall tidily through the brush opening. These are commonly used behind wall-mounted TVs.

You'll find the installation guides for our switches and sockets on our instructions page. All Corston electrical products should be installed by a qualified electrician.