Forget the jampacked Italian Riviera—Palmarola island is an unspoiled corner of paradise akin to the Maldives or Caribbean beaches. With small hidden bays, rocks overhanging the sea, crystal-clear, sky-blue water, and rugged green terrain, the relatively untouched island is the perfect place to unplug and touch grass. It may be a bit tricky to get to, but we promise the payoff is worth it.
Where is Palmarola?
The still-hidden gem is off the Amalfi coast, between Rome and Naples. Palmarola is part of the Pontine Islands group, which consist of six main isles: Ponza, Palmarola, Zannone, Gavi, Ventotene and Santo Stefano. This archipelago is the result of ancient volcanic activity—the remnants of which can be seen in the islands’ high, steep cliffs, their multitude of sea caves, and crystal-clear seabeds surrounded by Mediterranean vegetation. Each island has its own distinct soul: from Ponza, enlivened by a sparkling vitality and lots of tourism, to Ventotene, which has retained its vocation as a fishing village, to the more rugged and uninhabited islands. Tying them together is a strong and fascinating identity of history, nature, character and sea.
How do I get to Palmarola?
You can start by flying to either of the airports in Rome—Fiumicino (FCO) or Ciampino (CIA). From there, take a train to Anzio, Terracina, Formia or to Naples, and then sail to Ponza island by ferry. You can get to Palmarola island by boat only—most of them depart from Ponza.
The beauty of nature
Palmarola was formed between 4.2 and 1 million years ago. The island takes its name from the dwarf palm, the only palm tree native to Europe, which grows wild on the boulders and cliffs. Among the Pontine Islands, Palmarola emerges as an unspoiled, scenically unique land. You’ll find no big luxury resorts, loud clubs, or lines of restaurants. There aren’t even any paved roads, or an established electrical grid—and there’s certainly limited telephone coverage, so forget working from home. However, the lack of modern amenities means less traffic and crowds. Small summer restaurants and dwellings carved into the rock faces complete a dreamy picture, where the purity of the landscape makes Palmarola an almost sacred place to disconnect.
What to do on the island
The best way to explore Palmarola is by sea: sailing along the coast by boat, stopping at hidden coves, and diving into the clear waters. It’s the perfect place to snorkel or scuba diving. The only landing place on the island is Cala del Porto, a pleasant sandy beach where the boats from nearby Ponza dock. Aside from the coastline and its scenic inlets, the best-known sight is the so-called “Cathedral,” a complex of boulders eroded by wind and water that rises high above the sea, resembling the pipes of an organ. As in many other ravines and small caves surrounding Palmarola, in the “Cathedral,” you can dive into the blue waters and exploring the different sea coves.
Nearby, three caves with wide openings also resemble the pointed arches of churches. Sailing on from Cala Spermaturo, which offers breathtaking sunrises with views of Ponza, you'll come across Scoglio Forcina, with another view of the rugged and primordial landscape. Further south that is is Cala Brigantina, one of the most scenic beaches on the island. From there you can see Scoglio Suvace, an islet named after a local fish. Navigating westward, the famous Faraglioni of Palmarola is a series of jagged rock formations, of which the best known is the Faraglione di Mezzogiorno. You’ll also find the Grotta del Gatto, a nearly 100-foot deep secret dark passage leading into the belly of the island.
As you might’ve guessed, there are very few hospitality establishments open to tourists on the island. But we’ve heard O’Francese, one of the few family-run restaurants, has fabulous food and a few rooms available for whoever wishes to stay for the night.
This Palmarola island story was originally published in AD Italy.
